My brother, Tom, and I had always enjoyed backpacking in Yosemite. We would leave the gaping crowds in the valley and head out into the (relatively) high country. The only requirement was that there be water nearby, suitable for swimming and drinking. As the years went by the water sources started getting polluted with various bacteria, necessitating the inclusion of a water filter amongst our supplies.
One year, one of my partners in the recording studio we owned, hearing of my love for backpacking, invited me on a special camping trip that he and some of his friends took every year to Lake Eleanor on the northern border of Yosemite. “This is a serious guys-only trip we go on every year.” explained Jerry, “We take small inflatable rowboats and row down the length of the lake. Then we climb up this rock face on the side of a cataract to our campsite at a little beach next to a small river. We call it Camp Runamok. I’m pretty sure you’re fit enough to make the trip as I heard you run the mountain trails of Tamalpais.”
Judging from Jerry’s physique and level of fitness I was sure that, as the old song goes; “Anything he could do, I could do better...”. I was instructed to buy a couple of cheap inflatable rowboats; the kind with oar locks for the little plastic paddles that were included. I already had all the other camping gear. “We put the deflated boats on top of our packs and hike to the lake trailhead. It’s not that far from the parking area so we don’t have to walk all that far before we unload. We blow up our boats and tie them together and put our packs on the back boat and row down the lake. We stash the boats at the bottom of the cataract, shoulder our packs and climb the rock face to Camp Runamok” Jerry explained. “Hey, it sounds like fun!” I thought to myself. The idea that you could actually pack a boat on your backpack had never occurred to me. I don’t know which of my fellow campers came up with the idea of pairing cheap inflatable rowboats with backpacking, but I found it to be a great variation on traditional backpacking. “The great thing about it is since the boat is carrying all the weight we can bring pretty much anything we want. Canned goods, musical instruments, beach chairs. The big guys hump sixty pound packs!” marveled Jerry.
The hardy boat packer, stocked up with all the creature comforts needed for luxury camping.
“Anything he could do, I could do better...” I softly hummed to myself as I loaded up my pack with all the creature comforts I had typically denied myself on the standard camping trek, where you walked for miles before you left the crowds behind and found yourself a little Shangri-la. It was a really fun trip, even if we hadn’t had the magic mushrooms that were provided by the elders. The most veteran of the Camp Runamok members had given themselves exalted titles. I think they had attained the status of “Chief Senior Eagle” by this time, and despite the fact that I had brought two things that had never come to the camp before, cigarettes and a guitar, I acquitted myself by having an impressively heavy pack and showing superior water skills. By the end of our stay I was named a “Junior Eagle”. I was exalted to have the approval of the fellas...
I told my brother about this revolutionary new way to camp and he quickly came on board. We made a couple of modifications. We replaced the tacky little plastic “oars” that came with the boats, and upgraded to bigger, costlier “Sevylor” boats. With the bigger boats, you could just rest your pack on the stern of the boat, doing away with a second boat. The camping/fishing store where we got the boats also sold long hollow aluminum oars with oar blades made of a tough polypropyline plastic that screwed onto the aluminum poles. “Now we need to find a camp site where only us boat packers can go,” I said to my brother. After pouring over some large topo maps of Yosemite, we found a little lake that was further up the trail from the Lake Eleanor trailhead with its crowds of tourist rookie campers on guided horse trips. We hoped that the extra hour and a half uphill hike would weed out the madding crowds; the old and infirm...
Thus began our love affair with Kibbe Lake. Between my brother and I, together and apart with various girlfriends in tow, (“Come on!” I would exhort to the reluctant and by-this-time petulant girlfriend, “It’s a bit of a hike but once you get to the trailhead we get in our boats and the wind pretty much does the rest!”) My brother and I knew the drill, always cowboyed up, and never complained. Since then we and our companions, have enjoyed our inflatable rowboats in Yellow Stone Park, Mono Lake, String Lakes in the Grand Tetons, Mount Lassen, Lake Tahoe, in our own San Francisco Bay, and probably some other venues that don’t come to mind. But Kibbie will always be our special place.
If you are interested, there’s more about our boat packing adventures at Kibbie Lake in my earlier blog entry called “Ursophobia”. I made up the name to describe my brother’s attitude towards bears which we encountered on several of our camping trips.
A granite cliff near our marine camp site. There's a narrow ledge you can climb up and jump off of.
Your author at the trailhead. This is where we blow up our boats and leave the rest of the campers behind. The following pix are a brief photo journal of the joys of boat packing at Kibbie Lake.